Ensuring the band provides support without rising up. 4. Fabric Stretch and Pattern Adjustment
Hard pencil (2H), clear styling ruler, and a flexible tape measure.
The negative ease calculated for the waistband was too aggressive for the elastic used. Solution: Increase the pattern width at the waist or use a softer, higher-stretch elastic.
Outerwear relies on "positive ease" to allow room for movement. Underwear patterns utilize "negative ease." This means the finished garment measurements are smaller than the actual body measurements, allowing the fabric to stretch and hug the form.
| | Details | | :--- | :--- | | Title | Patternmaking for Underwear Design | | Author | Kristina Shin | | Latest Edition | 2nd Edition | | Number of Pages | 314 pages | | Publication Year | 2010 (1st Edition), 2015 (2nd Edition) | | Publisher | Createspace (1st Ed.), Amazon (2nd Ed.) | | ISBN-13 | 9781515098416 | | Weight and Size | 656g; 255 x 205 mm | Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf
Bare Essentials: Underwear by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks: An excellent manual focusing on construction, material calculations, and drafting baselines.
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Let’s simulate a typical exercise from a . Assume a hip measurement of 90cm (35.5”) with a stretch jersey that has 50% lateral stretch.
You cannot draft a successful underwear pattern without analyzing your fabric first. The material dictates the exact dimensions of your draft. The Stretch Test Ensuring the band provides support without rising up
Use a French curve to draw a deeply hollowed-out curve for the front leg opening. Step 3: Draft the Back and Gusset
Take a 10cm length of fabric, stretch it comfortably, and measure how much it extends. If it stretches to 12cm, you have a 20% stretch factor.
If you are applying fold-over elastic (FOE), the pattern edge should have no allowance. If you are using a plush back elastic that rolls over to the inside, you must add an allowance exactly equal to the width of that elastic band. 6. Sourcing Patternmaking PDF Manuals and Resources
One evening, frustrated, Maya draped a piece of stretch silk directly on her own body, pinning and clipping in the mirror. She realized the book’s secret wasn’t in the numbers—it was in negative ease . Underwear shouldn’t just fit; it should vanish. The negative ease calculated for the waistband was
The most crucial element of is understanding stretch percentage. If a pattern does not account for the fabric's stretch, the garment will be either too tight or too loose. Measure the Stretch: Take a piece of fabric and stretch it. If it stretches to , it has 50% stretch.
I’m unable to provide a story directly based on a specific PDF file like "Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf" because I don’t have access to external documents, private files, or copyrighted material. However, I can craft an original short story inspired by the concept of patternmaking for underwear design. Here it is:
Introduce a vertical dart from the base of the triangle to the apex.
